The pans have arrived and I’ve been using them for a while now. Here are my thoughts.

Follow up from this https://johnewbank.co.uk/what-stainless-steel-pans-should-i-buy-which-pans-i-purchased-and-why/

ProCook referral link – If you buy procook pans you can use my referral link, which gives 15% off. I used my friend’s referral link when buying these, which I felt made them more reasonably priced.

Build Quality

The pans are very shiny and feel well made. They have a robustness to them that suggests they will last. For comparison, I also bought a set of M&S tri-ply pans from Vinted and sent them back. They felt flimsy; not hugely flimsy, but they didn’t seem robust enough for £90. These ProCook pans are noticeably sturdier.

Lids and Fit

The lids don’t fit quite as I expected, and seem ever so slightly too small for the pan. However, they don’t vibrate when the pot is boiling, which is a plus. IF the pan does boil over, liquid tends to run down the side of the pot shown in the video, there is no vent in these, so I guess you just have to keep an eye on them.

Heating and Cooking

I previously used aluminium pans with a non-stick coating, which heated up very quickly. These stainless steel pans take a little longer to heat up, but not substantially so.

One thing I wasn’t expecting: the sides of the pans get very hot, much hotter than my previous pans. If you’re frying something in a saucepan (I know, a bit rogue, but I wanted to test these), food and oil can splash onto the sides and because they are tri-ply and spread the heat well, the food will dry out and form a crust rapidly. It’s not necessarily a problem, just different.

Despite food occasionally burning onto the sides, I’ve had no issues cleaning them. Everything comes off easily, burnt bits and all.

The even distribution of heat is noticeable. When I cook bacon in the frying pan, it cooks at the same speed across the whole surface. No hot spots.

Weight

The pans are noticeably weightier than my previous aluminium pans. For the saucepans, I don’t find this annoying; if anything, it feels reassuring. The wok is a little different. It’s very heavy, and combined with that stumpy handle, it feels heavier than it probably is. The handle digs into your hands when lifting. The ProCook handles, by contrast, distribute the weight comfortably.

Preheating and Oil

With stainless steel, you need to heat the pan before adding oil, and then add food once the oil is hot. This is different from non-stick where you can be more casual. It hasn’t changed my cooking habits significantly; it’s just something to be aware of if you’re coming from coated pans.

The John Lewis Thermacore Wok

I also purchased a five-ply wok from John Lewis, from their Thermacore range. This wok is great for cooking and I’d highly recommend a wok. However, the handle is a weak point. It’s quite stumpy and square with rounded corners, which makes it relatively difficult to lift and control, especially when the wok is full. This is mostly because the Wok is a heavy beast.

This is in contrast to the ProCook pans, which have arching round handles that are very comfortable to lift. The ProCook handles also allow the pans to stack well, as you can see in the picture.

For clarity: I didn’t entirely dismiss the John Lewis Thermacore range for Saucepans. I just decided I wasn’t going to pay £175 for three saucepans, even if they did look fancy. Having now used both brands, I feel my decision was correct. Fundamentally, I want pans that are comfortable to use, not just ones that look good on a shelf. The ProCook handles deliver on that.

What I Have and What I’d Change

Currently I have:

• 16cm, 18cm, and 20cm saucepans and a 28cm frying pan from ProCook
• 30cm wok from John Lewis

If I were buying again, I’d be tempted to swap one of the saucepans for an 18cm sauteuse (or sauté pan/chef’s pan), and possibly add a larger chef’s pan. I might get these at some point.

What I’ve Learned

I think saucepans are good, but sauciers (chefs/Saute pans) have been a better purchase. Saucepans are essentially pots: good for boiling things and stirring a bit. Sauciers (chefs/Saute pans) have curved, flared sides that allow for more even stirring and make it easier to reach food at the edges.

Would I Recommend These Pans?

Yes, with some caveats. These ProCook pans feel robust, they seem like they will last, and they clean easily. If you’re looking for a solid starting point, this is a good set.

However, given how food tends to burn on the sides, I wonder if you’d be better off with sauciers, or even the lower-priced ProCook Professional range, which has an encapsulated base rather than being fully clad? Maybe it is because I’m just getting use to the pans.

Part of me thinks that tri-ply saucepans are a luxury rather than an necessity. You can probably get the same results from a normal encapsulated-base saucepan for boiling and simmering. Where tri-ply makes sense is for sauciers and frying pans, where even heat distribution across the sides genuinely matters.

I’ll update this review periodically as I use them more.

I’m not sure I would have bought these pans at the full price of £195 with a frying pan. I think I would have shopped around more.

ProCook referral link. If you buy procook pans you can use my referral link, which gives 15% off. I used my friend’s referral link when buying these, which I felt made them more reasonably priced.